BLANKS: Sacrificing Craft in the Name of Modernity

by Kate Hagan

Wax rings after being removed from silicone moulds

Client with their wax ring after embedding a gem

Abstract

This project investigates current examples of the industrial applications of 3D printing technologies in collaboration with the lost wax technique and the resulting products. It aims to address how product creation within this field is shaped by the standards of modern mass manufacturing that inherently exclude the traditional values and benefits associated with the handmade. The project adopts a strict research-led design approach. Through this, it is argued that creating a reconfigured and inclusive methodology that balances the modern expectations of object creation, the principles associated with the handmade, and the incorporation of direct client interaction can produce products such as jewellery with a heightened consumer value.

Since the industrial revolution, the expectations concerning product creation have shifted to focus on efficiency, cost-effectiveness, and speed, which often excludes many of the coveted qualities attributed to handmade products. This has had the effect of limiting the value of modern-day products.

Research papers and scholarly articles investigating the imbued values within handmade objects in past and present settings are explored as well as historical documents outlining the origins and anthropological significance of lost wax. By referencing these sources in the application of an altered methodology and the resulting products themselves, it is believed that this report will offer evidence to encourage designers to reconsider certain design approaches. The production of jewellery during this project will incorporate speed and efficiency during initial manufacture while treating the incorporation of handmade intervention as an equal priority.

 
Since the industrial revolution, the expectations concerning product creation have shifted to focus on efficiency, cost-effectiveness, and speed, which often excludes many of the coveted qualities attributed to handmade products.
 

A couple of finished wax rings before casting

Design Intent

This work explores a combined design methodology, utilising the sacrificial element of lost wax with 3D printing technologies in a way that imbues uniqueness and emotional value in contemporary jewellery. The resulting collection includes a variety of one-off cast rings, each inscribed with a unique narrative of mark-making created by their owners. Every piece represents a particular moment in time for each of the wearers. This moment is then preserved in cast metal as a wearable memento.

The work was inspired by observations of the current manufacturing industry, which focuses on efficiency and cost-effectiveness in product creation. While this allows for consistent quality and reduction of the final product's market cost, the lack of human interaction removes the potential for the imbuement of artisanal value within the product that is coveted in handmade objects.

By utilising the additive manufacturing properties of 3D printing to create the ring ‘blanks’, both material and labour costs are saved, helping to make the final designs more affordable. By beginning with a technology-based approach but casting the rings in a malleable wax, the speed and efficiency in production remain while also allowing the client to include their handmade interaction in a step that doesn't require specialised skills in modelling software or casting techniques. The wax also allows for the gentle creation of cavities made for the waste produced from tumbling semi-precious stones to be reintroduced after casting. These tiny gems and stones possess a raw and unique look that matches the collection's aesthetic and provides an affordable and sustainable alternative to popular luxury gem choices. This product offers beautiful, collaboratively designed jewellery for clients who wish to own a personally significant piece at an affordable price.

 
By beginning with a technology-based approach but casting the rings in a malleable wax, the speed and efficiency in production remain while also allowing the client to include their handmade interaction in a step that doesn’t require specialised skills in modelling software or casting techniques

Rings after lost wax casting process (in brass)

Finished rings with embedded gems

Finished rings photographed in the style reminiscent of the ‘memento mori’ still life paintings of the Renaissance era

 

Bio

Kate Hagan is a product designer with a passion for the arts and developing abstract product concepts centred around functionality. She is enthusiastic about creating highly aesthetic pieces within the realm of contemporary jewellery, communicating a design process rich in research and justifying the place of affordable custom-made jewellery within the world.

Kate is skilled in CAD and digital rendering, especially for marketing or product promotion, as she possesses a talent for product photography and presenting professionally finished products. She pairs this with her knowledge of current promotional and visual trends through her experiences as a social media and marketing manager. Kate is experienced in graphic design and regularly incorporates her unique style by creating engaging and provoking graphics in collaboration with clients to produce striking statement pieces.

With a skill for interpreting client briefs, Kate focuses on achieving the final design deliverables while also maintaining a positive and professional client relationship.

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